Wine Matters

We were delighted to welcome back Jean Smullen to the cookery school. Jean gave a tutored tasting on wines from Chile and New Zealand. Our thanks once again for another fantastic wine presentation.
She began her wine career in 1991 with the Wine Development Board where she was instrumental in the development of a countrywide wine education programme.  Since 1999 she has been working in a freelance capacity offering a unique consultancy service to the wine trade.     

In 2006, 2007 and 2008  Jean was invited to participate as a wine judge in Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, one of the wine world’s best known international blind tasting competition.  This year  she also participated  as a wine judge in the 2009 Concours Mondial  which took place in Valencia in  April 2009.   She has been invited to participate in the 2010 event in Palermo, Sicily.  

Jean held the position of secretary to the Irish Guild of Sommeliers from September 2007 to January 2009 and is currently a member of the Council of the Irish Guild of Sommeliers.      
Jean is a member of the international Circle of Wine Writers and writes a monthly column for Retail News,  one of Ireland’s retail trade magazines.  She presents a regular wine slot with the national news station, Newstalk as part of the Sean Moncrieff Show, which broadcasts a  nationwide “Movies and Booze” feature on a Friday afternoons from 3:30 – 4:30 p.m.

Jean’s website www.jeansmullen.com  features the wine diary for the Republic of Ireland  which highlights forthcoming trade and consumer events.  This site provides a key planning role for all wine events taking place in Ireland.   
Photo attached – Jean Smullen with some of the students.

We were delighted to welcome Georgeta to Ballymaloe where she spoke about  Rocca delle Macie, and the students tasted  a ‘Super-Tuscan’, Ser Gioveto 2001.

Rocca delle Macie’sprincipal cellar is in the Chianti Classico area close to Siena and Florence, the historic and artistic heart of Tuscany. The founder, Italo Zingarelli purchased a 14th-century village called “Macìe”, and the nearby Saint Alphonso’s Farm, in the area of Castellina in Chianti in 1973. The buildings underwent a large-scale restoration process, including a modernization of the existing cellars and the addition of brand new cellars, which have been continuously updated ever since. Thus, Rocca delle Macìe was born.Rocca delle Macie is a young winery indeed, especially set alongside the centuries old history of so many of the famous wineries in the Chianti area. Nevertheless, in less than 30 years it has forged a reputation throughout the wine world as one of Chianti’s most highly regarded estates.

Beginning in the vineyard, selective herbicide methods are used to respect the environment and the workers. Fertilization is completely organic. In addition to producing extraordinary wines, they produce cold pressed olive oil and honey.

They have established a tradition of holding events, notably the annual Opera Singing competition launched in 1991 which attracts the talents of up-and-coming singers from around the world. Other events supported by the winery include bike races, car rallies as well as scientific and culinary seminars.
Ser Gioveto 2001 -  This wine is produced only in years of exceptional vintage. Rather than aging in large barrels, the wine spends 9 to 12 months in smaller 50 gallon French oak barriques, from the Allier region, and is then refined for at least 9 months in the bottle.Grape: 100% Sangiovese, carefully selected.Tasting- Intense ruby red with reflections of garnet. Intense, ample bouquet, with hints of aged berries and a balanced bouquet of toasted aromas acquired from the wood of the barriques. Palate is warm, robust, and well balanced with an element of tannin.Serving- Can be stored for long periods and should rest horizontally in a dark area at cellar conditions. Serve at room temperature not less than 65°F. It pairs beautifully with roasted red meats, wild game and dry cheeses.
Ph. +39 0577 732236
Fax +39 0577 743150
www.roccadellemacie.com
vendita.diretta@roccadellemacie.com
Our thanks to Conor O’Brien of James Nicholson Wine Merchant for arranging this visit. www.jnwine.com
Photo attached – Georgeta Perhald, Conor O’Brien, Rachel, Pamd and Colm

Jon Moslet, one of the students on the 12-week certificate cookery course, gave two fantastic wine presentations, along with Marco, to his fellow students on wines – the first one on wines from Colli Orientali del Friuli. This was a great opportunity for all to taste some unique and fascinating wines and grape varieties from Ronchi di Cialla (in DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy), and the second presentation on wines from Sicily was equally fascinating featuring the wines from Barone di Villagrade and from COS.

The wines from Colli Orientali del Friuli.

The wine producer RONCHI DI CIALLA, http://www.ronchidicialla.it (visits by appointment), run by the Rapuzzi family and located in the gentle hills of “Colli Orientali del Friuli” close to the border of Slovenia in North-Eastern Italy, is unique in many respects in the annals of modern Italian winemaking.

RONCHI DI CIALLA does not produce more than 60,000 bottles of wine per year, but through their consistent work with local grape varieties and perservering method and passion for quality, the Rapuzzi family has been an important innovator recognised in wine circles throughout Italy.

In the verdant hills between the Austrian alps to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south, in a climate fostering oak and pine trees as well as olive groves, a range of particularly interesting vines have developed and adapted over the millennia. The indigenous varieties of Refosco, Schioppettino, Ribolla Gialla, Picolit og Verduzzo, know and treasured for centuries, are now having their renaissance, not least because of the effort of RONCHI DI CIALLA:

·  The first producer to purposefully use the variety Schioppettino in a high quality wine suitable for ageing. Until RONCHI DI CIALLA saved this grape variety from extinction in 1974, only a few vines remained growing
wild. It is now considered one of the most important grape varieties in the region.
·  The first Italian wine producer to use barrique in the vinification of white wines
·  One of only a handful of Italian wine producers to resolutely withhold a major part of their production for ageing and subsequent sales. All vintages (1977-2008) are available.
·  The “cru” (sottozona) of Cialla was recently established in recognition of RONCHI DI CIALLA’s pioneering work, one among only 2 dozen cru in the Italian DOCG system.
·  The establishment of DOCG Picolit (from 2006) also includes Cialla as a cru.

Tasting notes:

Ciallabianco 2007
DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli
65% Ribolla Gialla, 20% Picolit, 15% Verduzzo

Deep straw-coloured white wine, hints of white fruit pear, apple and plum), vanilla and jasmine. Wellbalanced, structured, dry and round.
Fermentation in oak barrels followed by 11 months’ maturation. Further ageing in bottles, from 6 to 12 months.
Can be stored for at least 10 years. Fish and seafood starters; soups (pumpkin); fish served with a sauce; egg and vegetable soufflés (asparagus); white meats with a sauce; delicate cured hams; semi hard cow’s milk cheese.

Cialla Schioppettino 2004
DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli
100% Schioppettino

Ruby hues, spicy fragrances (white pepper) with hints of soft fruit (red berries), elegant while independent and assertive. Dry, soft tannins, pleasant and well-balanced finish.
Aged 18 months in French barriques and at least 30 months in bottles before release. Can be stored for at least 20 years.
Orzo (barley) minestrone (traditional of Friuli); roasted white and red meats; meats with delicate sauces; poultry and small game; mushrooms; Indian cuisine.

Cialla Picolit 2005
DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli
100% Picolit

Crisp golden colour, hints of honey, fresh and dried fruit, “sweet but not sweet”, with dry and exceptionally elegant finish.
Partial desiccation on the vine. 50% of the grapes are subsequently air-dried naturally for 3-4 months, causing the grapes to lose up to 60% of their original weight. Aged 12 months in barriques and at least 18 months in bottles before release. Can be stored for at least 20-25 years.
Great “meditation” wine, but also excellent when served with foie gras or mature cheeses.
 
Photo attached – Jon, Marco, Samuel and Colm

We had a joint Australia and New Zealand morning! We were delighted, as always. to welcome back John McDonnell, Wine Australia, to Ballymaloe Cookery School. John’s great wine presentation(the Irish Times recently described John as ‘a wine guru’), every 12-week cookery course is always very much enjoyed and appreciated by the students. A tutored tasting by John led us through the various styles and regions of Australia. John also very kindly presented each of the students with one of the interactive power-point tasting presentations  A brilliant morning as always and our thanks to John. www.wineaustralia.com/ireland.
 
During the same wine lecture, we also welcomed back Peter Macdonald, General Manager, Hunter’s Hunter’s Wines, Marlborough, New Zealand. The students tasted the latest release 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, and the 2006 Pinot Noir.In the last 30 years the province of Marlborough has moved from virtual obscurity to become New Zealand’s largest and best-known wine region with a reputation for producing some of the world’s finest sauvignon blanc. This huge potential was something that was recognised back in the 1980’s by Jane Hunter and her late husband Ernie when they founded their first fledgling winery in the picturesque Wairau Valley.
A fiercely independent, family-owned winery, Hunter’s Wines was the combined dream of Ernie and Jane Hunter. It was the inspired foresight of the ever-enthusiastic Ernie, New Zealand’s ‘unofficial wine ambassador’, which recognised the vast potential of Marlborough as a premier wine-growing region. However, only five years after producing his first six award winning wines (in fact, the first six Hunter’s Wines to emerge), he was tragically killed in a motor accident at the age of 37. In the aftershock of this, Jane, herself a highly qualified viticulturist with a long family history of Australian grape growing, resolved to build on the vineyard s proven potential. Through her strong determination, together with the talents of Chief Winemaker Gary Duke and eminent Australian oenologist Dr Tony Jordan, Hunter’s Wines has achieved an enviable reputation
Since those early years Jane has been owner, viticulturist and managing director of what has become one of New Zealand’s most established wineries, Hunter’s Wines. Hunter’s Wines have won more than 100 gold medals at national and international wine competitions, including the Marquis de Goulaine Trophy for Best Sauvignon Blanc in the World.
Hunters Wines Ltd., Rapaura Road, Blenheim,
PO Box 128, Renwick, New Zealand.
Telephone +64 3 572-8489,
Fax +64 3 572-8457
E-mail  wine@hunters.co.nz Web: www.hunters.co.nz
Our thanks to Mark O’Connor of Gilbey’s Wines for organizing the visit of Peter Macdonald.
Photo attached – Peter Macdonald, John McDonnell, Mark O’Connor and Colm

Georgina Cambells Ireland Guide Awards Ballymaloe House the Wine Award for 2010.

Taken from here.

Irish interest in wine has grown phenomenally in recent years – how many people saw a glass of wine as the natural accompaniment to a meal even a couple of decades ago? Our wine award has reflected that developing interest, highlighting the diversity of the wine experience and celebrating some of the finest lists and most passionate people in the world of wine.

For several years establishments recommended by the Guide have been invited to submit wine lists for competition and there has been a great response, ranging from the very grand to relatively simple lists; many of them are very interesting – including some short very but carefully chosen lists that match menus in smaller restaurants particularly well. At the moment there is one overall award and, when times improv,e we plan to expand the Wine Award to allow for different categories.

Last year’s Wine Award went to a young establishment and its brilliantly wine-focused creator – this year, by contrast, we have a wine cellar and list that has built up gradually over 45 years and developed into a holistic wine experience.

It all began with the late Ivan Allen, when he and Mrs Myrtle Allen opened Ballymaloe in 1964 (a year marked on the current wine list by Chateau Canon 1964); since then a number of equally dedicated and knowledgeable people have developed the wine offering and – in tune with the educational philosophy of Ballymaloe as a whole – wine events are now held on an almost weekly basis throughout the year, including visits by many guest experts such as the enormously popular twice-yearly intensive wine weekends with wine writer Mary Dowey – to be held next time in Ballymaloe’s beautiful new music venue, The Grainstore.

Current Sommelier, Colm McCan (described off-the-record by a colleague as ‘simply mad about wine’) revels in the job and has overseen development of the ’new’ wine cellar, which is in the ancient rock foundation of the old castle and not only naturally temperature controlled, but atmospheric with it; lined with new wine storage bins made from Ballymaloe beechwood by Sacha Whelan, it is effectively spotlit and well worth a visit. (They also have a bank of practical Eurocave temperature controlled wine cabinets for dining room service.)

The list itself remains a work in progress and, with at least ten ‘house recommendations’ plus many other more specialised choices by the glass, an accessible one at that.

An experience to be savoured.

The Springfield Estate is set in the heart of the mountain-ringed Robertson Valley. Springfield is a vibrant, innovative and closely family-run winery. owned and run by fourth-generation brother and sister, Abrie and Jeanette Bruwer. Nestled on the banks of the Breede Rivier, the lime-rich soils on the estate ranges from extremely rocky to clay with sandy soils next to the river banks, allowing Springfield to craft wines unique to its place of growth. The argument for terroir-specific wines gets a huge boost from the different examples of wines from Springfield, each made with great respect for the different micro-climates the grapes are grown in. Springfield’s motto is : ‘from the grape into the bottle with care and passion’. www.springfieldestate.com
The students tasted the Springfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc ‘Life from Stone’ 2008 and the Springfield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (which is also on the wine list of the Queen Mary II, which was actually in Cork Harbour the same day Jeanette visited Ballymaloe!)
Our thanks to Charles Searson, Searsons Wines, for organizing this visit. www.searsons.com
Photo attached – Charles Searson, Jeanette Bruwer and Rory O’Connell

We were delighted once again, and as always, to welcome back Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau, Kilkenny - www.lecaveau.ie

Pascal gave a fascinating talk and tutored wine tasting on wines from Burgundy, and the up-and-coming region of The South-West of France. Pascal is originally from near Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, and his experience takes him from the vineyards of his native Burgundy, to being a Sommelier, to  running one of the best independent wine merchant business in Ireland for the past 10 years.  The students really enjoyed Pascal’s  presentation on Burgundy and the South-West of France.

Le Caveau won the Bridgestone Guide Wine Merchant of the Year 2005, and in 2008, Le Caveau were awarded ‘Fine Wine Merchant of the Year 2008′ by The Sunday Business Post. The Bridgestone Guide writes ‘The selection of wines M. Rossignol imports and his extensive connections with wine growers in France means that the wine company actually has pretty much all the wines your life needs. The shop is the most charming space in which to browse, service is superb and delivery is fleet. It would be hard to better Le Caveau.’

Our thanks to Pascal. 

Please follow the link to Pascal’s website about his wine talk to the students.